Kohl (Kajal, Surma, Al-Kohl)
Definition
A dark powder applied to the eyes as a cosmetic in South Asian and Middle Eastern cultural traditions. Traditional mineral kohl is galena (lead sulfide, PbS), which may contain 40-80% lead by mass. Non-lead versions use carbon black (lampblack or charcoal). Traditional galena kohl is prohibited in the US (FDA Import Alert IA-66-01), the EU (Annex II Entry 209), and India (Cosmetics Rules 2020 Schedule 1).
- Traditional mineral form
- Galena (lead sulfide, PbS)
- Lead content
- Can be 40-80% by mass
- Non-lead alternative
- Carbon black (lampblack or charcoal)
- US status
- Prohibited, FDA Import Alert IA-66-01
- India status
- Restricted, Cosmetics Rules 2020 Schedule 1
Common questions
Why is traditional kohl still found in forensic toxicology cases despite bans?+
It is imported informally or made at home following traditional recipes, so it circulates outside regulated retail channels and shows up in pediatric lead poisoning investigations even where sale is prohibited.
How is kohl distinguished from other sources of lead exposure in an investigation?+
Analysis of the powder itself, for example by XRF or ICP-MS, identifies galena's characteristic lead-sulfur signature, and exposure history plus application site on the eyelid help link a poisoning case to cosmetic use.
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